Everything went well on the flight from Los Angeles to Rome – well, the seats were tight and narrow, there was a lot of turbulence, the food was adequate, and the flight was incredibly long. Other than that, it was great. We sat next to a nice couple who were on their honeymoon and traveling to Greece before coming back to Rome – Danilo and Mallory. There’s a chance we might bump into them before heading back to LA.
The taxi ride to the hotel was incredible! We passed so many significant historic sites along the way within the city of Rome – La Città Eterna. It is truly a monumental city with an incredible amount of iconic sites. We’ll try to document them during our 4 days here.
Our hotel room was ready and very nice. We immediately set about a quick tour of the city so we wouldn’t fall asleep too early. As a result, we passed and visited the following sites:
We followed the crowds – and there were plenty – to the Trevi Fountain. Rich and I had been there several times before but had never seen the amount of crowds like today. Apparently, a few cruise lines arrived today as well and the familiar groups with umbrella handling leaders were everywhere.
On to the Pantheon where we had a couple of beers to calm our nerves. It was nice sitting in front of one of my favorite monuments in Rome. We’ll come back tomorrow and I’ll have several pictures of the interior – it’s amazing.
We passed the Vittorio Emanuelle II monument on our way back to the hotel,
We were extremely tired by the time we got to the hotel and opted for a light meal for our first night in Rome. How about a Pizzeria? It was perfect and called La Bruschetta – family owned and right around the corner from the hotel. Although today was a relatively warm day – probably in the 70’s – tonight was a little brisk and we opted for dining inside the small pizzeria. A carafe of the house wine, a caprese salad with flavorful tomatoes and mozzarella, and a very thin crusted pizza – fantastico!
That’s it for tonight….. it’s been a very long day but we’re so happy to be here in Rome. We’ll have more adventures to share tomorrow.
What a day! And what a city! Rome is incredible….. and I forgot how wonderful it actually is.
We got an early start and headed directly to the Pantheon but we passed so much along the way. We had to pass the Trevi Fountain on the way so I took a few more shots – this time with less people standing in the way.
We then passed the store where priests, bishops, cardinals, and even the pope get some of their garments.
Before we got to the Pantheon, there’s a small square with a beautiful obelisk in front of a magnificent church. Rome is filled with so many churches and they appear just when you go around a corner with no expectations at all.
We then headed to the Pantheon which is probably one of the most structurally significant buildings in the world – just about perfect. There’s a hole in the center of the ceiling which lets in enough light and rain when it occurs. Although it’s very difficult to photograph because of the lighting, here are a few of the shots I took.
Notice the angle of the light coming in – it’s truly amazing.
There’s the light from above reflected on the walls.
And finally – I secretly took a picture of these two centurions who were asking for photo opportunity monies. They caught me stealing a shot but I pretended not to understand….. it works in so many situations.
And then on to the Piazza Navona which is not far from the Pantheon. The Piazza is large and typically hosts all sorts of vendors, particularly at Christmas time. It also is the site for performers on occasion. It has a beautiful fountain in the center of the piazza – Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers).
I love the picture above because it exposes the opposite end of the square through the center of the sculptures.
We next headed to the ancient part of the city where the Forum and Campidoglio are located. We first passed this interesting small museum, actually a church, containing nothing but hanging formal dresses.
And here are some of the ancient structures that are left. This first is the archeological area of the Portico d’Ottavia. One of the British tourists passing us by said that Sophia Loren lives at the top of the structure – I’m not sure whether I should believe that or not.
We then crossed the Tiber River onto an island where we saw the rapids and waterfall within the river.
Passing back over the river we then spotted this structure – Santa Maria in Cosmedin. Does this look familiar to anyone? Those who know Pasadena will recognize the similarity to Saint Andrew Catholic Church in Pasadena – it was an exact replica of this structure.
A small picture of Romulus and Remus.
And the relook at the immense structure of the Victor Emmanuel monument – it’s massive.
The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the changing of the guards.
And finally some shots of the ancient area of Campidoglio and the Forum.
And finally a few shots of the Colosseum – we tried to get in but the lines were incredibly long. We’ll try again on another day.
I now appreciate the 5 years of Latin that I took in high school.
We decided to take Metro back to the hotel since we’d done so much walking today. Metro was packed!! Of all of the cities where we’ve taken Metro, this was by far the most crowded – packed in like sardines!! And of course, I had to stand next to the guy sneezing and coughing – probably just infected with the Bird Flu. Just kidding.
Tonight we ended a very fruitful and fun filled day with dinner at Nino’s – a restaurant we visited many years ago. Here’s what we had:
Filet of Sole:
All extremely tasty. I had to end the evening with a gelato at a nearby gelateria on the Spanish Steps – pistachio of course!
And finally a few shots of a very crowded scene at the Spanish Steps.
Buona Notte a Tutti!!
We started off early today since we wanted to go to the Vatican for the Papal Audience – although we didn’t have any tickets. We took Metro as far as we could and again the Metro was jam packed. When we got off, it was obvious where everyone was going….. walking as a crowd to the Vatican. We were standing way in the back but at least in the middle of the Piazza.
When we first got there, there was a clear view of the Basilica. After standing for about an hour, more groups came in to fill the void between us and the ticketed guests. There were moments of slight rain and you could see that the umbrellas were going to be a problem – at least as far as view of sight.
All of a sudden, the large digital screens (4 across the Piazza) showed Pope Francis and the crowd went wild. We couldn’t tell from which direction or where he was, but the screens clearly showed he was on his way – standing on some sort of vehicle. When he passed us, we were able to see him but unfortunately I couldn’t focus properly to get a clear picture – too many umbrellas in the way. At the same time, it started to pour and people fled for cover. The poor Pope was in the open and happily waved to the crowd. The rain only lasted about a half hour but the timing couldn’t have been worse. Here’s the shot leaving the Piazza after the rain had stopped.
We then walked to the Castel Sant’ Angelo where we visited the museum and saw some incredible views of the Vatican and the surrounding area.
We walked for what seemed like hours and miles – our feet hurt and we had walked so many steps and stairs that we could hardly breathe. We finally landed at the Piazza del Populo and had a couple of drinks. Here are a few pictures from the Piazza.
Back to the hotel we dragged our sorry butts… and a well deserved nap. Our legs were aching.
We had dinner reservations at Hosteria da Pietro at 8pm – what a wonderful local Roman trattoria. The food was excellent and it was a very tiny restaurant – about 10 tables at most. The server was very courteous and spoke enough English for us to order everything. We had a great meal.
That’s it for tonight – another great day in Rome. Tomorrow we’re planning to revisit the Vatican and enter St. Peter’s – we’ll see how that goes.
The plan today was to go back to the Vatican ….. and that we did. We took Metro as far as we could – yikes, cramped doesn’t even begin to describe the experience. We got off at Ottavian and then realized that it was pouring….. back down into the Metro station where the vendors were making a hay day of selling umbrellas. But it was raining too much to venture into the open. We waited about 45 minutes – thunder and all. It was also a lot cooler than we had experienced up to this point – downright cold!
We made our way to the Vatican only to find that the lines for admittance to the basilica were amazing – they followed the contour of the colonnade – probably about a thousand people. There are now new security lines that one must go through. As a result, we only stayed outside but caught some nice close-ups.
We then left the Vatican and walked to Trastevere which is the area of Rome across the Tiber River where there’s a more relaxed kind of feel. We went into the main church, Santa Maria in Trastever. This one church shows the power and money that Rome leveraged throughout its history. This area of Rome was beautiful.
We made one last visit to the Pantheon and had lunch in the square. Here are a few shots of the Pantheon from the front.
Back to the hotel for a short rest and getting ready for dinner. Tonight we went to Sapore di Mare, a wonderful seafood ristorante where their fresh seafood is proudly displayed at the entrance. Although the restaurant was quite inconspicuous from the street, it was very cozy and elegant inside. We had a great meal with the following dishes.
On our way back to get a taxi, I got these shots of the nighttime view of the Pantheon and surroundings.
And finally…. after a very racey taxi ride back to the hotel, we had a night cap at the hotel – Sambuca Romana on the rocks.
We leave tomorrow for Sorrento….. we get the car at 9am right around the corner. The challenge will be finding our way out of Rome given all of the interesting turns that every road takes. Let’s keep our fingers crossed and my GPS constantly engaged. I’ll have more from Sorrento tomorrow.
Arrividerci Roma – we’ll be back in another week or so.
We left Rome this morning and left right on schedule. Our car is a Nissan small SUV – stick shift and diesel…. I’m not sure whether that’s a good combination or bad. There was a point, however, when leaving Rome that I was on an incline, in major traffic and finding it very difficult not to back into the vehicle behind me – I think the Roman behind me was even more concerned. All went well and the drive to and through Naples occurred without a hitch. The toll, by the way, was 17 euros – whatever happened to $2 or $5?
We took the road to Sorrento which surprisingly was very busy in the middle of the day on a Friday. Through many sharp turns, uphill sections, and many tunnels, we came to an abrupt stop. What was the trouble? Nothing…. just traffic. This was worse than any situation on the Pacific Coast Highway during the worst holiday traffic jam. Besides, there were so many tour buses on the road that it made it difficult sometimes to even stay in the lane. We finally arrived at our hotel which is on the edge of the Bay of Naples – with an incredible view of Mt. Vesuvius. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to see much of it today because it was raining quite a bit – and very cold. It’s supposed to be this way until Sunday.
Until then, here are the pictures I did take.
We ended the day with a nice, light meal at a local cafe – no pictures tonight. We’ll continue tomorrow with the hope for less rain and more photo opportunities.
Here are two pictures of Mt Vesuvius this morning.
Today we took the boat to Napoli – about a 40 minute trip across the bay. The weather started out wonderfully but the sea was still a bit rough – particularly the last few minutes before docking. I stood outside and took these pictures in transit.
We quickly got our bearings and headed out to the city – a very big and bustling city. Most of the buildings along the main thoroughfare look to date back to the late 19th or early 20th centuries. Here’s a look;
We somehow found our way into the old part of the city…. filled with very narrow streets, motorcycles zipping by, and an enormous amount of knick knacks – you name it and they’ve got it. It’s amazing how quickly they’ve already captured the new pope in small figures and other images. Here’s a look at the streets of Naples.
We happened to experience a wedding in process at the St. Paul Basilica – of course, I had to capture a few pics.
Not bad for not being an invited guest, huh?
There were plenty of food products along the way. One of my favorites – clams or vongole – is shown in water tubs. These are the smallest, yummiest little clams you’ll ever experience.
More alley shots.
And finally good old Victor Emanuel – evidently loved all over Italy.
Because the weather by this time was a little iffy, we took the train back to Sorrento – the Circumvesuviana – a local train making many stops along the 1 hour 15 minute ride. It also makes stops at Pompeii. We returned to Sorrento in time to capture another wedding – the Italian women were dressed to the nines.
This almost looks like several scenes from the Wedding Crashers, doesn’t it? We didn’t get any food by the way.
Time for a few hours of rest – no nap today – and then it’s time for dinner. The concierge recommended Da Emilia Trattoria which was located in the main harbor of Sorrento – within a 10 minute walk from the hotel. Actually everything in Sorrento is pretty walkable as long as you can handle the steep grades. This one was easy going down but quite an effort coming back up. Here’s the view looking down on the restaurant and a few pictures of the meal.
And finally, a beautiful sunset from Sorrento. Check back tomorrow for our adventures to Pompeii.
We started early today with our tour at 8am. We were to meet at the parking lot nearby and then first go to Herculaneum and then Pompeii. As we were waiting for the bus, we started talking to a threesome who were very friendly. It turned out that Suzanne works for Kaiser in Pasadena and her husband and friend work as pharmacists for Kaiser as well. We ended up spending a lot of time with them and enjoyed their company. Just goes to show you how small the world is.
Anyway, the bus arrived on time and our tour group was 22 – a very reasonable amount. Our tour guide was Raphael and was very knowledgeable about both sites. The bus ride to Herculaneum was about 45 minutes with little traffic along the way. Herculaneum is in the direction of Naples and not far from there. Herculaneum was impacted by the same eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD but was impacted differently than Pompeii. Because of the lava flow, this town had better preserved frescoes than Pompei but was much smaller. Amazingly, the town was right in the middle of the present day city – in fact, 3/4 of the ancient city is still underneath the new city. Here are some of the pictures I took there.
Before entering Pompeii, we had a group lunch at a nearby trattoria – Tiberius. We had a choice of pizza, spaghetti, tuna salad, or fish with accompanying drinks and dessert for only 13 euros – the food was good. Rich and I both had the tuna salad.
And then on to Pompeii….. what an incredible afternoon! Pompeii was much, much larger than Herculaneum and to me was much more impressive. There was a lot of walking and uphill exploring but the experience was well worth the effort. Raphael was able to explain many of the details that would have been lost without a guide. The ancient Romans were experts at the use of water and how to transport it effectively within the city.
The roads consisted of large stones and you could see instances where the chariots had carved their wheels into the stone. In addition, because of the rain and often wet streets, they devised stepping stones across the streets so that people’s sandals didn’t get wet.
There were many more remaining columns in Pompeii than in Herculaneum.
There were several points at which actual human bodies incased in stone were shown. Apparently, most of the people died from smoke inhalation and not necessarily as a result of the lava flow.
One of the most impressive sites was the forum – a large expanse which was the center of activity in Pompeii and highlighted the proximity to Mt. Vesuvius.
You can see that it was a beautiful day with very few clouds. It was continually a challenge taking photos because of the number of people who would get in your way. It was a very long day and everyone in the group was exhausted by the time we got back to the bus. We were back at the hotel by 5pm.
A little rest and it’s almost time for dinner. Before dinner, we had a couple of drinks in the hotel bar but on the balcony outside the bar. It was a beautiful end to the day and I captured some of the sunset from the balcony.
If you look carefully, you can see a small boat caught in the reflection of the sun.
We went to Re Foods for dinner – it’s a strange name and the restaurant was very new, it appeared. Very modern looking with nice decor. Here’s what we had:
If this seems like a lot of food….. it was. We were stuffed.
Today was a great day and we saw so much. It also was the warmest day we’ve had since we’ve been in Sorrento. No jackets today! Let’s see what tomorrow brings.
Today we took the ferry to Capri – roughly 35 minutes from the port of Sorrento. The boat ride was very calm and quick. I took a few pictures leaving Sorrento and arriving in Capri.
It took us some time to get our bearings and discover the funicular to the actual town of Capri. The funicular takes you far above the bay and directly into the little Piazzetta where we first sat down. Although we had started with a perfectly sunny morning, by the time we reached our first cafe on the Piazzetta, it started to rain. Oh no…. our only day in Capri and it’s raining??? No worries, it only lasted 30 minutes or so and the sun came out …… and so did the crowds of people. I can only imagine what August in Capri must be like because today was jam packed with people. Long lines to get tickets and plenty of tour groups with their followers. Nonetheless, it was a very pleasant town with some very high end stores along the narrow streets.
After strolling the streets and having saltimbocca sandwiches in one of the cafes, we decided to take one of the small buses to Anacapri – the other town on the island. There was a long line to wait for the bus and then they jammed people into this small little bus. There were very few seats so most were standing. I positioned myself in the back corner of the bus so I could take pictures through an open window. I had to be careful not to stick my lens too far out of the window because I could actually touch the tree leaves and building walls along side the bus – very scary. I took some shots while trying to keep my balance.
We finally reached Anacapri which is the highest point on the island. We walked around a bit but then became concerned about reaching our boat back to Sorrento on time. The line for the bus ride back to Capri was already quite long. Back on the bus and back to Capri.
We had an enjoyable few hours on Capri and bought a few souvenirs. Here are some pictures of the return.
After a few hours rest, it was time for dinner. First a few pictures of the sunset from our hotel balcony.
We had dinner at L’Antica Trattoria, a few steps from our hotel. We had a great dinner that was fairly reasonably priced.
That’s all for today. We have one more day in Sorrento before heading to Ravello on Wednesday.
Today we took the bus to Positano….. I would have preferred to see Positano with a lot of sun and clear blue skies, but we had to settle for cloudy conditions. I know…. stop complaining. It was still beautiful.
The bus ride was an experience…. all 60 minutes or so. Very winding roads, narrow curves, and steep cliff drops on the sea side. There were times when the bus had to stop, cautiously move forward and pass an oncoming bus by only an inch or two. Welcome to the Amalfi Coast. First, a few shots from the bus.
After leaving the bus, we made our way down the long street to the beach – it was much worse coming back the other way. There were plenty of tiny shops along the way but not a real town to speak of. Here’s what we saw at the bottom.
We stopped for a beer and watched as the sun darted in and out of the clouds. It wasn’t a cold day, it was just a bit cloudy. While drinking our beers, I spotted this salamander eating a few greeneries in front of us.
Of course we had to have lunch in Positano and chose Chez Black right on the beach. We had a very nice lunch with a bottle of Pinot Grigio. The food was wonderful.
After lunch, we hiked back up the road to the bus stop – a very hefty hike. We caught the bus just in time but caught a few lasting shots of Positano.
We came back to Sorrento…. isn’t there a song by that name??? We rested a bit and then got ready for dinner. The hotel recommended a restaurant called Vela Bianca. Although the restaurant was just a 1/2 mile or so away, a van came to pick us up along with a British couple going to the same place. The restaurant was great – plenty of seafood but other things as well.
The restaurant also had some classic old photos of Sophia Loren on the wall. When we were finished with dinner, we and the British couple walked around the restaurant admiring the photos – everyone else had already left. Here are my last photos to end the blog tonight. Tomorrow we’re off to Ravello. Buona notte!
We left Sorrento around 8:30 and started our journey to Ravello. In order to get to Ravello, you must pass Positano and Amalfi both and then head up the steep mountainside. The drive took us about 1 1/2 hours – torturous and horrific. It was the worst drive I’ve ever experienced. As long as we were in mountainside and cliffside parts of the road, there was no problem – hair pin curves and all. But went we came into the little towns – the two lane road was riddled with parked cars on either side, motorcycles, pedestrians, and the occasional bus. There were actually times were I had to collapse my mirrors (thank god I knew which control to use) in order to pass by – tunnels and all. I usually stayed in 1st gear and occasionally advanced to 2nd gear. We made it without an incident although I was surprised nothing happened.
Here is the view along the Amalfi Coast drive.
We arrived in Ravello and checked into the hotel – the hotel is beautiful and sits on the top of the mountain with views of the sea. We got the only room with a balcony – I love it.
The hotel is beautiful. We had lunch at the hotel with a spectacular view.
More photos of the hotel and surrounding sites.
That’s it for tonight. I’ll have more pictures tomorrow when we go to Amalfi.
Before describing our trip to Amalfi, I wanted to share a few photos I didn’t include in last night’s blog entry. There are some pictures of the night scene at the hotel, the panoramic view at night, and fireworks that occured as well.
Today we took the bus to Amalfi. I was happy that I didn’t have to drive the winding road from Ravello to Amalfi. The bus does it much better and I can just relax…. although the ride is still a bit scary at times. It took us about 30 minutes to get there. Here are a few shots.
We paid 3 euros each to visit the Amalfi Duomo or cathedral – it was well worth the entrance fee. It was unexpectedly beautiful inside and extremely old.
We had lunch in a cafe on the Piazza Duomo and then caught the bus back to Ravello. Before leaving, however, we walked to the small jetty to take some picture of the beach and coastline.
Amalfi is much bigger than Positano and not quite as quaint. At the same time, Amalfi has the beautiful cathedral and a lot more visitors.
We returned to Ravello and rested a bit. Ravello is a very small town that really prospers from the daily visitors arriving each day. By nine o’clock, the streets are fairly deserted with the occasional couple walking back to their hotel. Dinner tonight was at a local trattoria, Cumpa’ Cosimo. The restaurant is busy and run by an Italian mama who makes sure that everything is good. What a great experience! We got so much more than we ordered because they wanted us to be pleased with dinner…. and we were. I was looking at a red wine for about 40 euros and the owner said “I’ll bring you something better and it’s only 25 euros”
Here’s the rest of the meal…..
We had a very nice day traveling in and around Ravello today. It was a beautiful day with warm temperatures and nice pleasant breezes. Let’s hope this continues for the rest of the trip.
Today we spent the entire day on the hotel property. Had breakfast and then laid out by the pool – it was a fantastic day; warm with mild breezes blowing and the view of the sea below.
We had lunch at the Belvedere restaurant – the more casual dining area – and then went back to the room to rest. Since this would be our last night, we had reservations at Rossellinis for dinner – a fantastic restaurant overlooking the view. In addition, they had a small group with mandolin and guitar, playing mostly italian classics. It was truly a memorable evening. We didn’t have the prix fixe but ordered a la carte hoping to have less food – wrong….. At the same time, it was all great.
To end the evening – it was about 11pm at this point – we both had a cappuccino martini – the specialty of the bartender made with frangelico, kahlua, bailey’s, and amaretto and the right proportions of chocolate and cream. Yum!
It was an unforgettable evening that was truly magical. The food was fantastic, the music evoked emotions and the service was stellar. All of this with the most incredible view possible. Ravello was a very restful and enjoyable part of our vacation. Tomorrow we head back to Rome.
Back to Rome…..
We left Ravello at 8:30am and easily found our way through the winding roads back to the Naples-Rome highway. It took about 3 and a half hours with special instructions from the Ravello hotel on driving directions into Rome. We were able to find the Hertz car rental location without even a wrong turn…. it was truly amazing!
I didn’t have any entries for last night since we spent most of the day in the car. Today we went to the Capitoline Museum. The Capitoline Museums are a group of art and archeological museums in the Piazza del Campidoglio – immediately adjacent to the Victor Emmanuel monument and also to the Roman Forum. Here are a few pictures to remind you of the adjacent sites.
The museums were very interesting and filled with archeological findings as well as a bounty of Roman and Greek sculptures.
And the original Romulus and Remus…..
The following statue of Marcus Aurelius is the one that is seen in the Piazza of the Campidoglio but that one is a replica – this is the original…..
We then walked back to the hotel and stopped at the Spanish Steps along the way. I took this picture to demonstrate just how many people hang out at the Spanish Steps….. can’t imagine what’s it like in the height of the season.
We also stopped into the church at the top of the Spanish Steps.
And finally…. we had dinner tonight at the Ristorante Girarrosto Toscana – it was a great local restaurant with a very broad menu.
I think we pissed off the waiter tonight because we didn’t leave a tip. It’s really very confusing now when you need to leave a tip and when you don’t. Evidently he expected one and we didn’t deliver…… oh well, he didn’t deliver great service either. It’s a good thing we’re not going back any time soon.
Tomorrow is our last day in Rome and we’re hoping to get into St. Peters Basilica. We’ll get up early and hope for the best.
Here’s where we had lunch today….. across that same fountain at Piazza Navona but without Mario Lanza …….
We began the day early by headtailing it to the Vatican. Since it was so early, I got the opportunity to capture a shot of the Spanish Steps without the crowds….. not sure that happens very often.
Today we walked about 7.5 miles total….. back and forth to the Vatican and then to Piazza Navona and back. All of it wasn’t on level ground by the way.
Before we got to the Vatican we passed by Piazza Cavour.
We then entered the main street into the Vatican…. again lacking many of the huge crowds we’ve seen in the past. We actually got into the Basilica within 10 minutes having gone through security.
Here are the shots from outside the doors to the Basilica.
Here are the shots I captured inside the Basilica. Although we had both seen this before, we forgot how immense the structure is and how impressive it is.
And then of course I had to capture the Swiss Guards.
We then walked back to the hotel – changed because you weren’t allowed to wear shorts in the Basilica – of course, we saw some but they were interrogated frequently. On to lunch at the Piazza Navona where we had our last pizzas in Rome – molto buono!!!
Our last night in Rome, we had a wonderful dinner at Ristorante Tullio – we had been there many, many years ago and were again very impressed by dinner. We first sat next to two women from Boston who were very interesting and then next to two men from Moscow here on business – structural engineering, they knew Worley Parsons and of course had a lot of common discussion with Rich. Here’s what we had:
That’s it. As I’m finishing this, we’re watching a concert on TV with Placido Domingo and Andrea Bocelli performing famous arias in the Verona Arena…. it’s a beautiful way to end this fantastic trip to Italy. If you’ve followed the blog, you’ve seen that we’ve experienced some incredible sights and places. The trip to the South was a new experience and one we’ll cherish for a long time….. the history, the food, the limoncello, the sun and the rain, and the outstanding beauty. Everywhere the people were great and we met some wonderful people along the way. And then there’s Rome….. what can I say about Rome…. it’s just an incredible city with so many distinct personalities and stories. It’s intense, sometimes dirty and noisy, but that gives it the charm that is Rome. What a wonderful city! It is the Eternal City…. La Città Eterna.
Thanks for following us through this wonderful trip. Buona Notte!!!